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(Pears’ advertisement, 1807) See also: Rouge Pears’ Bloom of Roses was one of a number of cosmetics imported from England by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain [1798-1864] when he opened his perfume shop on the ground floor of the Hôtel Meurice – a popular residence for English visitors – in Paris in 1828.
By the 1840s Guerlain was well established, making and selling his own cosmetics including some that were designed specifically for the lips – Roselip, a tinted lip-balm and Extrait de Roses, a liquid lip-rouge.
It was available in a metal tube no later than 1892.
Described as a ‘coraline emollient for the lips’, Lypsyl came in a fluted, silver-metal tube (large and small) in a design similar to the one used for the company’s silver-metal encased shaving sticks.
White wax 2½ ozs., spermaceti 3 ozs., almond oil 7 ozs., balsam Peru 1 dram, alkanet root 1½ ozs., melted together to desired colour, strained, and perfumed if desired. 421) Lip-salve-sticks and rouge-sticks had some advantages over other forms of lip-rouge; they did not spill like liquid lip-rouge and, if used directly on the lips, did not produce messy fingers generated by using a paste lip balm.
The difference between a coloured lip-salve-stick and a rouge-stick or lip-stick is arbitrary but can perhaps be distinguished by the type and amount of colouring agent they contained; lip-salves usually had less colouring and were generally made with cheaper alkanet, whereas lip-rouges or lip-sticks had more colouring and often used carmine which was more expensive.
According to some sources lip-salves of this type were were in existence before 1840.
The following well-tried example, dating from before the “forties” of the previous century is often quoted to-day as new.Then in 1870, he introduced Ne M’oubliez Pas, widely credited as being the first stick lip-rouge (rouge à lèvres en bâton).Suggestions that the first lip-rouge sticks were seen wrapped in tissue at the Colonial and General Export Exhibition held in Amsterdam in 1883 seem too primitive and too late.Place the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia; allow them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days; then add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix.Place the bottle in a quiet situation for a week; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine will subside; the supernatant “Bloom of Roses” is then to be bottled for sale. 236) PEARS’s [sic] LIQUID BLOOM of ROSES gives a most delightful tinge to the Female Countenance, and to such a degree of perfection, that it may with propriety be said that Art was never so successfully employed in improving the Charms of Nature.Cosmetics have been used on lips for millennia to protect them from chapping and cracking when the air is dry.